Updating knob tube wiring yourself

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They had only a thin wire go to the ammeter, wired in parallel to the main electrical feed, with a small resistor.

The intention was only a small portion of the current goes through this wire; just enough to move the ammeter in the appropriate direction.

Eventually he figured out the charging system wasn't working 100% so the alternator had to be replaced.

Voltage regulators (and the electrics in general) for the '69 were apparently not the best around so it's better to replace the alternator with one that has the regulator incorporated into it instead of getting the separate regulator.

This means the ammeter in the dash doesn't work anymore, but I don't have to deal with the poor regulator and everyone on the Glamorbird group says the ammeter rarely moves more than a millimeter anyway.

According to an email from Guy Rideout: Most normal ammeters (not volt meters) have the main electrical feed (except for the starter) go through the gauge.

I poked around and found several places that restore the sending units and several used ones, but finally tracked down a new one at Thunder Cars and Parts.

Stefan, the owner, said someone had started remanufacturing them the previous October and not many folks knew about it. The gas tank was pulled and sent it away to be cleaned and re-lined, but the shop said it wasn't worth fixing.

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Ford did not do this, as it was easier and cheaper to have the heavy wires stay under the hood.Note: I've scattered stuff all over this page, so you might have to do a Find if you don't see what you're looking for. One of these days I'll organize the whole mess instead of just adding on!May 2001 I went back to the salvage yard and got a few parts off the 2 door.Apparently the 67-69 models don't use the rubber bolts they used in previous and later years to hold the glass to the track.After a while the glue stops working and the glass comes loose.

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